Last night after dinner in the company of a Canadian woman, we watched, from our “fresh beer” drinking vantage point, young couples participating in the Pot Breaking Game. Blindfolded and armed with a stick to smash a small clay pot, they competed for prizes of lanterns and purses amidst much hilarity when the target was missed. The position of the pot was adjusted to match the height of the contestant.
This place has a way of slowing down your pace when you stay for more than a few days. The rainy season also dictates whether a stroll is in or out of the question. This morning we ate breakfast at Rosie’s Cafe, a business venture started by two young Vietnamese women. They specialise in coffee, cold-pressed juices and all-day (until 3 pm) breakfasts.
Here are some of the highlights from this morning’s walk in the weather break, which included a wander through the food markets.
Behind the Sri Dalada Maligawa (the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic) is a tiny pocket of colonial history in the form of the Kandy Garrison Cemetery. Its caretaker, Charles Carmichael is the most eloquent man whose knowledge and welcome greatly enhanced our visit. It is clear that both Charles and his young offsider love the work of looking after this place and its stories.
Not only are very young soldiers who served in the early 19th century interred here, but those public servants involved in constructing railways and other infrastructure in the region. Accidents and malaria accounted for many young men. Wives and children were also lost on these periods of service in the colonies.
The most frequently told story in Charles Carmichael’s repertoire is of John Spottiswoode Robertson, one of three siblings who, in 1856, went out looking for elephants with what can only be called cavalier stupidity. When a charge happened, his two brothers managed to run and scramble up a tree until the local people came to the rescue. John was not so lucky.
We enjoyed a cup of Broken Orange Pekoe Tea at the Tea Museum and learned a little about James Taylor, the instigator of the tea industry in Ceylon.
Here’s a view of the lake from the hill where a great white Buddha sits; some of the beautiful flower gifts available to people visiting the Sacred Tooth Relic Temple; and students in their pristine white uniforms heading home from school.
When you’re spending 2 hours hanging on to strap handles on the 7.00 am commuter train from Galle to Colombo in Sri Lanka, there are few opportunities to capture moments with the camera. Instead, the observations from every corner of that carriage are stored for future use in word form.
At Colombo Station we waited for the Kandy Express. I amused myself by taking photographs of young Chinese tourists taking selfies from every conceivable angle.
The 3 hour express train to Kandy was a different kettle of fish in that we had allocated seats for the ride.
After taking care of check-in, laundry and finances, we grabbed some food at one of the many bakeries in the town before heading down towards the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic via the lake.
The Temple precinct includes many buildings, all of which have detailed architectural interest. Today was a special day and many Sri Lankans arrived in procession to pay their respects at this most revered site.