Behind the Sri Dalada Maligawa (the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic) is a tiny pocket of colonial history in the form of the Kandy Garrison Cemetery. Its caretaker, Charles Carmichael is the most eloquent man whose knowledge and welcome greatly enhanced our visit. It is clear that both Charles and his young offsider love the work of looking after this place and its stories.
Not only are very young soldiers who served in the early 19th century interred here, but those public servants involved in constructing railways and other infrastructure in the region. Accidents and malaria accounted for many young men. Wives and children were also lost on these periods of service in the colonies.
The most frequently told story in Charles Carmichael’s repertoire is of John Spottiswoode Robertson, one of three siblings who, in 1856, went out looking for elephants with what can only be called cavalier stupidity. When a charge happened, his two brothers managed to run and scramble up a tree until the local people came to the rescue. John was not so lucky.
We enjoyed a cup of Broken Orange Pekoe Tea at the Tea Museum and learned a little about James Taylor, the instigator of the tea industry in Ceylon.
Here’s a view of the lake from the hill where a great white Buddha sits; some of the beautiful flower gifts available to people visiting the Sacred Tooth Relic Temple; and students in their pristine white uniforms heading home from school.